If you’ve ever searched for images of Busan, you’ve seen the idyllic Haedong Yonggungsa, perched on sea cliffs. It’s one of the only Korean temples by the sea and dates back to the 14th century. It’s also one of the most popular attractions around Busan, so it’s unlikely to be as peaceful and deserted as it might look in photos.
Whether or not it’s worth visiting depends on what you want from your visit. I’m going to share some of my photos and my own experience to help you decide.
It’s true that when you arrive, you’ll see a lot of souvenir stands, food stalls and even a convenience store. You’ll walk past statues of the 12 Chinese zodiac animals and then you’ll enter the temple complex.
This was when I first felt quite how busy it was. There were people everywhere. At points, we were all shuffling along slowly because of the volume of people. I definitely wouldn’t have called it peaceful.
There are a few spots to admire that famous view of the temple. They were all busy when I visited. Again, I wouldn’t have sat there to relax, but it was easy to get a photo that didn’t feature the back of someone’s head.
I would have expected that famous view to be my favourite part of my visit, but it was actually admiring the colours and architecture of the buildings up close. Not to mention all those colourful lanterns inside. These buildings were restored in the 1970s after they were severely damaged during the Japanese invasion of Korea.
There was one spot I would have called peaceful. I climbed some steps behind the main buildings to a lookout with views over the rooftops. Families came and went, but they were a lot quieter than the tourists below, and at points I was alone with the statue of Gwanseeum-bosal, the Bodhisattva of Great Compassion.
So, is it really that busy and touristy?
For me, it felt like a temple, not just a tourist attraction. There are parts that aren’t as busy, like the lookout. I’ve heard that it’s practically deserted if you go first thing in the morning. In the daytime, however, most areas are absolutely as busy as people say. You’ll eventually get through the crowds to take photos, but up close they’ll look like this:
My clearest memory is of a narrow path with a steep step at the bottom, where I literally couldn’t move because of the endless stream of people below who wouldn’t stop to let anyone out. ‘Excuse me’ and ‘jinagalgeyo’ were ignored. The people behind me couldn’t see how stuck I was and they were shouting and pushing me. Not the kind of experience you want to have anywhere, let alone at a temple.
So yes, it is that busy.
Is it worth visiting?
If you just want to take photos and don’t mind the crowds, then yes! You won’t know if it’ll take your breath away if you don’t go.
If you want a peaceful temple experienece, no, unless you go first thing in the morning. However, without your own transport, you’d need to stay nearby or get a taxi from Busan or Haeundae to get there that early. Personally, I don’t think that would be worth it. It’s beautiful, yes, but it’s not the most amazing place I visited in South Korea.
Do I regret going, even though I only had a few days in Busan? No, not at all. Would I go again? No.
Atlas and a Camera 